February 18, 2010

FIRST SIGNS OF A NEW SWELL

Sometimes when there is a fresh new swell you can almost feel it first thing in the morning. There seems to be more salt in the air and more energy in the crisp off shore breeze. The feeling of walking up to get your first glimpse of the newly stacked corduroy lines is like having a 2nd cup of coffee. Each and every wave has traveled hundreds or thousands of miles only to show its power,beauty and unique form for just a few seconds and for our enjoyment.

This particular morning we were early for the swell’s arrival and at first light there were small clean lines all the way to the horizon. There was a small right tucked away in a sheltered cove for a quick go at first light. Within an hour or so the swell more than doubled in size as the wind kicked up hard offshore. By mid morning all the outside bars were absorbing most of the swell and there was a fickle wedge that proved to be nearly impossible to line up. Once the swell fully filled in, it was clear we needed to relocate and doing so proved to be a smart move as that evening turned out to be one of the best days we saw. For that you will have to wait for the movie but in the mean time here are some images to highlight the first signs of the new swell.

a frame

tube

left

January 21, 2010

from afar

5

November 3, 2009

PHOTO ESSAY

A day on the Gold Coast

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