Every now and again a day rolls around where you find yourself in the right place at the right time. In Asher Pacey’s case these days seem to be more often than not and this day was no exception. The swell had swung just the right direction for a few out of the way places to potentially light up. We took the gamble and it payed off in the form of a near perfect right peeling around a rock ledge with multiple tube sections on offer. These are the days everyone lives for, just you and the ocean and the clarity that comes with solitude.
Stunning is the first word that comes to mind when describing the landscape in Australia. From the dense rainforests to the swooping green valleys that lead to wide open sandy beaches and rocky coves, there is plenty to set your sights on. In between surfs we found our eyes drawn to the natural beauty surrounding us and spent a day exploring the coast. First stop was the rainforest which was nothing short of amazing. So clean, crisp and lush you could feel it in every breath. Although rainforest’s only cover 6 % of the earths surface, they are responsible for up to 40% of the earths oxygen supply and more than two thirds of the worlds plant species are found in tropical rainforests. They have been called the “jewel of the earth’ and after spending an afternoon there it is obvious how one could draw that conclusion. After a cool drink from one of the many fresh water streams we headed back down to the beaches to have a look around. There is so much to see and so many places to surf that one could drive themselves mad just thinking of all the possibilities. It was refreshing to see some untouched coastline with no signs of human destruction or intervention. No cigarette butts, coffee cups, cans or plastic just pure ocean and sand. We made it a point to pick up at least one piece of trash everyday from each beach we visited but for once we were left empty handed. Coming from California this was hard to comprehend after so much rain and swell that the sand was still pure and garbage free, the way it should be.
Australia’s waters contain all five of the world’s ocean temperature zones: polar, sub-polar, temperate, subtropical and tropical. Luckily for us, we found ourselves in a subtropical zone with comfortable water and air temps. Generally Australia is a relatively dry continent, however prior to our arrival they had seen months of torrential rains along the East Coast, particularly in Queensland and Northern NSW. Another generalization is crystal clear blue water. This was not the case after so much rain and flooding. Most of the line ups closely resembled a Mexican beach break rather than the pristine swimming pool colors you so often will see. With the rain came very green landscape, tons of mosquitoes and lots of silty run-off, oh yea and a few sneaky sandbars as well.
Day 5 : The waves were pumping for the first four days and Asher had already locked into many dozens of filthy dark caverns of moving water. Just when we were ready for a rest we happened upon a fickle gem of a left point. It takes a lot for the sand to line up correctly but on this day all the stars aligned and with no rivers or inlets for miles in either direction the water color was an impressive emerald green. Knowing that these days are few and far between, Asher spent nearly seven hours in the water and mostly in the tube hiding from the glaring sun.
Australia is a magical place with an abundance of surf, culture and wildlife. Being the largest island on the planet Australia boasts 16,006 miles of coastline to explore. From the tropical coral reefs in the North East to the cold water and lonely beaches of the South West the land down under can satisfy almost anyone.
Upon our arrival we were greeted by one of the country’s finest, Asher Pacey. Asher’s family roots go deep into Australia’s history and being that he is a class act in and out of the water he made for the perfect tour guide to begin exploring this wonderful continent. The swell had been up for weeks and Asher was buzzing having racked up countless minutes of tube time over the last month. We were pleased to hear that the swell train was supposed to continue in the weeks to come and we quickly grew anxious to see what the morning light would bring. Although the first day was supposed to be the smallest it had been in awhile the winds were going to be good and after all, it wasn’t going to be flat. Our first glimpse of the ocean the next morning proved that surf forecasting can sometimes be a flawed science.
The first session was a good introduction to Australian beach breaks and the heavy peaks they provide. This was just the beginning and the swell forecast was looking good for the next couple of days. Stay tuned . . .
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Datums are the basis for all geodetic survey work A geodetic datum is an abstract coordinate system with a reference surface (such as sea level) that serves to provide known locations to begin surveys and create maps. In this way, datums act similar to starting points when you give someone directions. For instance, when you want to tell someone how to get to […]
The Sargasso Sea, located entirely within the Atlantic Ocean, is the only sea without a land boundary The Sargasso Sea is a vast patch of ocean is named for a genus of free-floating seaweed called Sargassum. While there are many different types of algae found floating in the ocean all around world, the Sargasso Sea is unique in that it harbors species of sar […]
NOAA's Harmful Algal Bloom Operational Forecast System in the Gulf of Mexico identifies whether or not a bloom of algae is likely to contain a toxic species, where it is, how big it is, where it's headed, and if it could become more severe in the near future. Like a weather forecast, this system provides officials advance warning to test and close […]
You won't find Spirobranchus giganteus, also known as the Christmas tree worm, eating your fir tree this year. The common name for these worms is derived from their appearance, not their habitat or diet. Each worm has two brightly colored crowns that protrude from its tube-like body. These Christmas tree-like crowns are composed of radioles, or hair-lik […]
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For most areas it could be a matter of years, not days or weeks, before debris from the Japanese tsunami reaches the United States. The debris clumped together when it first washed into the ocean, but it has since dispersed, making it difficult to locate. This makes it hard for scientists to tell what types of debris are still afloat and how much of it will […]
The cryosphere is the frozen water part of the Earth system There are places on Earth that are so cold that water is frozen solid. These areas of snow or ice, which are subject to temperatures below 0°C for at least part of the year, compose the cryosphere. The term “cryosphere” comes from the Greek word, “krios,” which means cold. Ice and snow on land are o […]
Tide and current data is available from NOAA's Center for Operational Products and Services website Tides Tide Predictions. Generate a graphical display or a tabular listing of daily high and low tide predictions for more than 3,000 locations around the nation. Predictions may be generated up to two years in advance. Real-Time Tide Data. Access current […]
'Turkeyfish' is another name for lionfish. Viewed from the right angle, the ornate fins of the lionfish resemble turkey plumage. That's why 'turkeyfish' is one of the many imaginative names people use when referring to the lionfish. Lionfish are native to the Indo-Pacific, but are now established along the southeast coast of the U.S. […]
While we often think of the earth as a sphere, our planet is actually very bumpy and irregular. The radius at the equator is larger than at the poles due to the long-term effects of the earth's rotation. And, at a smaller scale, there is topography—mountains have more mass than a valley and thus the pull of gravity is regionally stronger near mountains […]
NOAA's Digital Coast provides the data, tools, and training that communities use to manage their coastal resources Geospatial data alone is not enough. For data to be truly useful, additional training, tools, and information are often required. The Digital Coast provides this complete package in one place for coastal officials. The Digital Coast is a co […]
